What to do in Provence, without the tourist traps
Most "things to do in Provence" lists are written from Paris. This one is written from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, at the foot of the Alpilles, by the team that hand-assembles the ALPILLE watch. Here is what we actually send friends to do when they visit.
The four things that make a Provence trip
One hill village walked at golden hour (Les Baux, Gordes, Ménerbes, Lourmarin, any of them works). One Roman site (Pont du Gard, Arles arena, Glanum). One half-day on the coast (Cassis calanques over Saint-Tropez crowds). One slow afternoon at a vineyard, an olive mill or an antiques market in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Skip anything that markets itself as "Provence experience". The real experience is silence, cicadas, a glass of rosé and a 2-hour lunch.
When to come
May, June and September: warm light, manageable heat. Lavender peaks late June to mid-July (Sénanque Abbey blooms around 20 June, 15 July). October has the cleanest light of the year. Avoid the first three weeks of August unless you love a crowd.
A local gift to take home
Lavender bags fade, olive oil tins are confiscated at security, ceramic cigales gather dust. ALPILLE makes a 40 mm French multifunction watch hand-assembled at the foot of the Alpilles, €229, shipped worldwide. It is the only thing made here that survives twenty years.
Pick the village to start from
Each city page below has a one-day itinerary and hotel recommendations.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need in Provence?
A minimum of four nights to do it any justice; a week is the sweet spot if you want both the Alpilles and the Luberon.
Should I rent a car?
Order online and check the shipping and return conditions. For a visit, collection or a special request, contact contact@alpille.com before ordering or travelling.
Is the lavender open to the public for free?
Yes, fields around Sénanque, Valensole and the Sault plateau are visible from the road. Be respectful: do not pick.